Crafted centuries ago, the original eau de colognes contained a blend of citrus essential oils, and many featured orange blossom as a key note. Today, that effervescent floral is having something of a revival, appearing in a fresh batch of new perfumes.
With Gabrielle Chanel ($135), the first new women’s fragrance from the Paris fashion house in 15 years, the perfumer Olivier Polge brings out the soft, smooth side of the bud, surrounding it with other garden-plucked ingredients (jasmine, tuberose) for a result that is light and easy to wear anywhere. Things go much deeper in Memo Paris’s limited-edition Marfa Spices ($500, available mid-December), the latest addition to the brand’s Art Land series that balances orange sweetness with the rugged earthiness of cardamom and musk — it’s the kind of complex, unisex blend that really lingers on your skin. For something in between, there’s Krigler’s English Promenade 19 ($365), a vintage, diffused orange blossom scent released in 1919 (and famously worn by Audrey Hepburn) that’s still very much in rotation. “People want more and more that feeling of freshness in their perfumes,” observes Ben Krigler, the fifth-generation perfumer behind the family-owned brand. “Orange notes give that feeling of healthiness or naturalness.”
Sustainable practices, meanwhile, are very much part of the mission behind Sana Jardin, a new socially conscious French fragrance house. The founder and former social worker Amy Christiansen Si-Ahmed launched the line after spearheading the Orange Blossom Project — a cooperative that supports female harvesters in northwest Morocco who handpick all of the brand’s floral ingredients and upcycle the roughly 900 tons of orange blossom waste (created annually in the region) into their own products. The entire range of Sana Jardin fragrances is free of parabens, artificial colorants and formaldehydes; Berber Blonde (about $240) is currently the best seller — a mix of orange blossom water, neroli oil and musk designed by the nose Carlos Benaim that utilizes the entire bloom, including the twigs. “The smell of orange flower infuses my early memories of growing up in Morocco,” Benaim says of his inspiration. “I remember walking among the orange groves and being intoxicated by the scents.”
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