These Perfumes Are Anything but Demure - New York Times

Tiffany & Co. Tiffany

In 1889, a jeweler named Paulding Farnham, who had come to Tiffany & Co. as a wunderkind at 16, won the grand prize at the Exposition Universelle in Paris for his collection of pearl-encrusted orchid brooches. His victory put Tiffany on the international jewelry map, but it also raised the stakes: He had to come back swinging in 1900 to prove that Tiffany wasn’t a one-hit American wonder. So he did what any jeweler looking to make a splash at a world’s fair in the Gilded Age might: He made a bedazzled iris corsage the size of an actual iris, with a golden stem and dozens of Montana sapphires and demantoid garnets for the bud. It not only won, it also became an artifact and now sits in the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore.

For its new signature scent ($100 for 1.7 ounces), Tiffany dipped back into its history of winning with irises. There is orris butter laced throughout the juice (which, being a Tiffany item, is a faint shade of robin’s egg blue), as well as a gleaming mandarin frosting and a quiet base of minty patchouli. Iris can smell like old lipstick in perfumery, with a hint of Miss Havisham atrophy. But here, it presents as powdery, expensive and yielding. There is a bit of that oversize iris brooch left in its DNA; it is intended to impress, to enchant, to leave one feeling gilded.

Chanel Gabrielle

Gabrielle is Chanel’s first original new scent in 15 years. It is also a debut of sorts for the perfumery scion Olivier Polge, who took over for his father, Jacques, as the house’s resident nose in 2013. The younger Mr. Polge, who was raised in Grasse, France, with enfleurage in his veins, swanned into the Chanel fold having already formulated several blockbusters. He was responsible for Paco Rabanne Invictus, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb and the Lancôme cotton-candy megahit, La Vie et Belle.

Last year, Mr. Polge tweaked Chanel No. 5 to create No. 5 L’Eau, a spin on the classic formula that replaced some of the dank musk with a bright shellac of citrus. This fall, he officially signed his name to an original Chanel concoction, Gabrielle ($105 for 1.7 ounces), which is named for the matriarch tailor of the brand and is what the house deems a “solar” fragrance, intended for all-day wear. A collage of white florals including ylang-ylang, tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom, it is designed to diffuse on the skin, shimmering away from the wrist like heat on a pavement. There is an undeniable elegance to it, but it is so delicate that after a few hours the scent is no more than a whisper, a gossamer reminder of a more glamorous morning.

Byredo Velvet Haze

The company that became Avon began in 1892 as the California Perfume Company (headquarters in New York City), with the idea that invoking the Western frontier and its fields of wildflowers might help push creams and powders. Now, the Byredo founder Ben Gorham, who grew up in Sweden, Toronto and New York, has become the latest entrepreneur to find inspiration along the Pacific.

His Velvet Haze ($150 for 50 milliliters) is meant to channel the countercultural music moment of the 1960s as well as the more contemporary dewy dancing youths camped out at Coachella. It contains coconut water and hibiscus, making it smell not unlike a Los Angeles smoothie bar, and it closes with a lactic murmur of cacao, which leaves the collarbone smelling like a berry dipped in chocolate. This is the sort of scent that works best after dark, perhaps as one walks along a California beach, with the heartbeat sound of bass thumping somewhere in the distance.

Jason Wu

Clean, clean, clean. Whereas many of the fall perfumes smell like tipsy opulence — or vulgarity, depending on your take — Jason Wu swerved in a different direction for his first scent ($70 for an ounce). Though the main note is an essence of jasmine sambac that Mr. Wu remembers from his childhood in Taiwan, the scent is as cool as slices of cucumber laid on the eyelids.

There is a lightness to the perfume, but also a sense of humor. At times, it smells like Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda; at others, it gives off sweet puffs of peony. This is perfume as understatement, everything tailored just so, but never fussy or high maintenance. It’s a slouchy sweater that always fits, though its casual, perfect drape is more complex than meets the eye.

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